![]() For the tool to cut properly it is important that the bevel rubs on the wood, so it must be held with the handle well down. With the blank spinning, approach it carefully with the tool remembering that the corners are only visible as ghost images, they are almost invisible. You do not want the toolrest twisting into the spinning workpiece whilst it still has corners on! The process of roughing out generates a lot of vibration and it is important that nothing works loose. A block of this size would normally be turned at about 2000 rpm, but for the roughing out stage it is often better to drop the speed a little until the block is down to a cylinder.ĭo make certain that the toolrest is secure in the banjo and locked tightly on the bed. Try this by hand before you switch the lathe on. A block of 2 ½” square ash is mounted between centres, the toolrest adjusted so that it clears the spinning corners. A block of this size would normally be turned at about 2000 rpm, but for the roughing out stage it is often better to drop the speed a little until the block is down to a cylinder.Ī typical application for the roughing gouge is shown in Picture 6. ![]() A few light passes is all that is needed to restore a dull edge, you do not need to spend a lot of time on the grinder.Ī typical application for the roughing gouge is shown in Picture 6.Ī block of 2 ½” square ash is mounted between centres, the toolrest adjusted so that it clears the spinning corners. Simply rest the tool well up on the revolving stone, then draw it back gently until sparks start appearing over the top edge of the tool, Picture 5.Īt this point the bevel is in full contact with the stone and you then just roll the tool from side to side, but keeping it perfectly in line with the stone. Sharpening will be covered in detail in a later tutorial, but the roughing gouge is actually one of the easiest to sharpen. Sharpening is quite straightforward and only requires a good quality bench grinder, preferably with a white wheel of at least 6” diameter. Many tools are supplied from the manufacturer with a bevel that is far tool long for comfortable working, Picture 4, so you will have to adjust this on the grinder, before you can use it properly. ![]() As a general rule though the tool needs to be sharpened square across with a single bevel at approx. The exact angle is not critical, with experience you eventually determine your own angle based on your stance at the lathe. ![]() This will handle all but the biggest of blanks, the larger 1 ½” gouge is only necessary for really heavy section material.īefore you can use the gouge it must be sharpened correctly. For most work the ¾” section gouge is a good general workhorse, Picture 2, and is usually supplied in a beginners set. They are never used for any sort of faceplate work. These are available in a range of shapes and sizes, but by far the most popular is the deep fluted section gouge, Picture 1.Īs the name suggests, roughing gouges are used to reduce square spindle blanks to a cylinder, and then remove the bulk of the waste prior to detailed shaping with spindle gouges. The first tool that the beginner to woodturning is most likely to come into contact with is the roughing gouge. ![]()
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